It’s the quickest way for a neighbor or good Samaritan to notify you that they have found your pet.

You need both because:

  1) I.d. Tags are visible; microchips aren’t;

  2) People carry cell phones and can call if your pet is loose (if you’ve provided them
      with a phone number on an i.d.tag), not scanners to read microchips; and

  3) If your pet loses its collar or tag before it’s found, the microchip will act as its
      second line of defense.

I recommend Aluminum; it’s very durable  and won’t rust.

For maximum durability, a tag should be stamped, not engraved.

This is because stamping makes a deeper impression on the tag’s surface than engraving and the deeper the letters and numbers on the tag, the longer it will last.

Your tag should have your pet’s name, so the good Samaritan who wants to help can calm your pet and gain its confidence. It should also have as many phone numbers as  necessary to insure that when this person calls, he will be able to speak to someone at one of those numbers, and not get voice mail at all of them. (For some people, just their cell phone numbers will do the trick.)

Most people would prefer that you pick up your friend. They don’t want to put strange animals in their cars and deliver them. This is because they may have  a busy schedule, be uncertain about how to get to your home, have their own pets in their cars, or any of a host of other reasons.

Moreover, if you’ve put the right combination of phone numbers on your pet’s tag, you (or someone close to you) will be speaking to the finder within moments after he’s gotten your friend under control. When this happens, there’s no need for additional stuff on the tag, since you and the Good Samaritan can make immediate arrangements to reunite you with your dog or cat.

Beyond being unnecessary, there are some risks you take when you put your address on a pet tag. These are:

  1) You may invite a burglary from someone who knows your dog isn’t home,
      has your address, and can call to see if you’re there.

  2) If you pay a reward for your pet’s safe return, the person who collects it
      will know where to petnap your critter if he wants another reward.

  3) If a well-meaning soul finds your pet close to your house, he may figure
      that all is well and that your kitty or pooch is just out for a neighborhood walk.

  4) Someone may deliver your pet when you’re not home to make sure it
      remains there.

The Good Samaritan probably doesn’t care what your name is when he stops to help. He only wants to tell you that he’s found your pet and arrange to return it. If you want him to know your name, you can introduce yourself when you’re talking.

Perhaps, but ask yourself how many people leave their houses to cruise the streets looking for lost pets to steal. Isn’t it much more likely that anyone who stops to corral your pet left his house with something else in mind (e.g., errands, an appointment) and has stopped to help? Don’t you want to “play the odds” in this situation and give the Good Samaritan every advantage he can have?

Consider too that anyone who stops to steal your pet, will probably have made the decision to steal him before he even gets out of his car and reads the tag. In other words, he will steal your pet whether he knows your pet’s name or not!

Being stolen would be hard enough on your friend. Wouldn’t having to learn a new name make it worse?

If your pet is lost, it may be disoriented and frightened. Give the Good Samaritan every advantage and use the name to which your pet is most accustomed.

This one’s a “toss-up”. Most people who take the time to intercept a lost pet are not doing it for money. The proof of this is that when they are coaxing your pet to come to them, they haven’t yet seen the tag offering a reward.

The reward for these folks is your gratitude and the knowledge that your dog or cat has been rescued.

If it will fit, and you want an extra line on your tag with “reward” on it, go ahead. It won’t stop the people who aren’t looking for money, and may motivate a small group to invest the time to make sure that you and your pet are reunited.

The only negatives are that some people who would have been happy without a reward will now ask for one, and that if you disclose your address the reward-taker will know that you’re willing to pay one and also know where to get your pet again.

The larger the tag, the more room is available for multiple phone numbers. If the tag you like best has insufficient space for all of the numbers you want on it, you’ll need to consider a different one.

You can have both the rabies and pet information stamped on opposite sides of my pet tag. This will eliminate the tags banging together

No. The depth of the stamped impression is greater than engraving. However, small differences in the composition and thickness of different tags means that the letters and numbers on some tags will be slightly deeper than others.

At checkout, 10% will be added to your total for shipping and handling.

Studies show that approximately 15% of the population is allergic to dogs or cats. An estimated one-third of Americans who are allergic to cats (about two million people) live with at least one cat in their household anyway. In a study of 341 adults who were allergic to cats or dogs and had been advised by their physicians to give up their pets, only one out of five did. What’s more, 122 of them obtained another pet after a previous one had died. It’s clear the benefits of pet companionship outweigh the drawbacks of pet allergies for many owners. Living comfortably with a companion animal despite being allergic to him requires a good understanding of the allergic condition and an adherence to a few rules.

All cats and dogs are allergenic (allergy-causing) to people who are allergic to animals. Cats tend to be more allergenic than dogs for allergic people, although some people are more sensitive to dogs than cats. Contrary to popular belief, there are no “non-allergenic” breeds of dogs or cats; even hairless breeds may be highly allergenic.

Dogs with soft, constantly-growing hair—the Poodle or the Bichon Frise, for example—may be less irritating to some individuals, although this may be because they are bathed and groomed more frequently. One dog or cat of a particular breed may be more irritating to an individual allergy sufferer than another animal of that same breed.

The source of irritation to pet-allergic humans? Glands in the animal’s skin secrete tiny allergy-triggering proteins, called allergens, that linger in the animal’s fur but also float easily in the air. Allergens are present in the animal’s saliva and urine, too, and may become airborne when saliva dries on the fur. The severity of reaction to these allergens varies from one person to the next, ranging from mild sniffling and sneezing to life-threatening asthma, and can be complicated by simultaneous allergies to other irritants in the environment.

If your or a family member’s allergies are simply miserable, but not life-threatening, take these steps to reduce the symptoms:

• Create an “allergy free” zone in the home—preferably the bedroom—and strictly prohibit the pet’s access to it. Use a high-efficiency HEPA air cleaner (available at almost any home and garden store or discount department store) in the bedroom. Consider using impermeable covers for the mattress and pillows because allergen particles brought into the room on clothes and other objects can accumulate in them.

•Use HEPA air cleaners throughout the rest of the home, and avoid dust-and-dander-catching furnishings such as cloth curtains and blinds and carpeted floors. Clean frequently and thoroughly to remove dust and dander, washing articles such as couch covers and pillows, curtains, and pet beds. Use a “microfilter” bag in the vacuum cleaner to effectively catch all the allergens.

•Bathing your pet on a weekly basis can reduce the level of allergens on fur by as much as 84%. Although products are available that claim to reduce pet allergens when sprayed on the animal’s fur, studies show they are less effective than a weekly bath. Even cats can become accustomed to being bathed; check with your veterinarian’s staff or a good book on pet care for directions about how to do this properly, and use whatever shampoo your veterinarian recommends.

•Don’t be quick to blame the family pet for allergies. Ask your allergist to specifically test for allergies to pet dander, rather than making an assumption. And understand that allergies are cumulative. Many allergy sufferers are sensitive to more than one allergen. So if you’re allergic to dust, insecticides, pollen, cigarette smoke, and cat dander, you’ll need to reduce the overall allergen level in your environment by concentrating on all of the causes, not just the pet allergy. For example, you may need to step up measures to remove cat dander from your home and carefully avoid cigarette smoke during spring, when it is difficult to avoid exposure to pollen.

•Immunotherapy (allergy shots) can improve symptoms but cannot eliminate them entirely. They work by gradually desensitizing a person’s immune system to the pet allergens. Allergy-causing proteins are injected under the person’s skin, triggering the body to produce antibodies (protective proteins) which block the pet allergen from causing a reaction. Patients are usually given one dose per week for a few weeks to months (depending on the severity of the allergy) and then can often manage with one injection per month.

•Additional treatments for allergies to pets are symptomatic, including steroidal and antihistamine nose sprays and antihistamine pills. For asthma, there are multiple medications, sprays, and inhalers available. It is important to find an allergist who understands your commitment to living with your pet. A combination of approaches—medical control of symptoms, good housecleaning methods, and immunotherapy—is most likely to succeed in allowing an allergic person to live with pets.

Of course, if you do not currently have a pet and are considering one, and know you are pet-allergic, be sure to consider carefully whether you can live with the allergy before you bring a new pet home. Except in the case of children, who sometimes outgrow allergies, few allergy sufferers become accustomed to pets to whom they are allergic. Too many allergic owners obtain pets without thinking through the difficulties of living with them. And too often, they end up relinquishing pets, a decision that is difficult for the owner and can be life-threatening for the pet. 

Read more at BestFriendTags.com

Information courtesy of The United States Humane Society

You can handle the brushing and other simple grooming procedures yourself. This type of regular grooming helps build a close bond between you and your pet, and keeps you informed of the condition of his fur, skin, teeth, nails, and ears. In fact, it is not uncommon to discover lumps, infections, and other problems during a thorough grooming routine.

Should you take your pet to a professional groomer? The answer depends on the type of pet you have and your comfort level. For example, many people feel comfortable grooming their short-haired cats, while owners of long-haired dogs prone to mats opt for professional grooming. If you fall into the latter category, this need not be a “hair-raising” experience for you, your pet, or the groomer. The key is finding the right groomer to provide quality grooming care for your pet.

What is grooming?

Grooming is more than just a hair cut. It may include bathing, combing, brushing, clipping nails, cutting or shaving mats, cleaning ears, and controlling external parasites.

Why choose a groomer?

You may not have the time, tools, experience, or physical ability to adequately groom your pet. For example, some animals (like poodles) have their fur groomed into particular styles that require a professional. Or a pet may require regular or seasonal clipping, medicated or flea baths, removal of skunk odors or harmful substances, or removal of matted fur. Typically, a trained professional can more safely and humanely handle tricky procedures and temperamental or frightened animals. (Removing severe mats should always be done by an experienced groomer to avoid accidental cuts.) Keep in mind, however, that professional groomers aren’t miracle workers; it’s up to you to stay on top of your pet’s grooming needs.

Where can I find a groomer?

Start with a recommendation from a friend, veterinarian, boarding kennel, dog trainer, pet supply store, or animal shelter. Check the Yellow Pages under “Pet Grooming.” You can also contact the National Dog Groomers Association of America; a link to its website is provided below.

Some groomers are registered or certified by a grooming school or professional association, but no government agency regulates or licenses pet groomers. Check with your local Better Business Bureau to see if any complaints have been lodged against a grooming facility. Then, after narrowing your search, call groomers to ask about services, costs, and hours of operation. Also request the names of a few current clients to interview.

How do I evaluate a grooming facility?

Before selecting a groomer, tour the facility. Here are some factors to consider during your evaluation:
• Is the facility well-lit?
• Does it look and smell clean?
• Does the staff appear knowledgeable and caring? Do they handle pets gently?
• Are cages adequately sized? Are dogs and cats caged in separate areas?
• Are pets monitored regularly to prevent overheating during blow-drying?
• Does the groomer keep complete pet records (including grooming, medical, vaccination, and emergency contact information)?

How much does grooming cost?

Grooming costs vary depending on where you live, your pet’s species and size, the severity of matting, and the simplicity or difficulty of the cut. An average fee is $35 for a shampoo and brushing, and $40 for a shampoo and cut. More extensive grooming services cost more. Expect to pay $10–15 more for mobile grooming services that come to your home.

How can I ease my pet’s fears?

It’s important for your pet to tolerate being groomed, regardless of how often you take him to a professional. To train your pet, groom him briefly when you’re both relaxed. For example, begin by gently massaging his coat each morning as you feed him. Gradually introduce a brush or comb. Each day, increase the grooming time and work on different areas. Reward your pet for cooperating. The more comfortable your pet feels with home grooming and around strangers, the better he’ll tolerate professional grooming.

What should I do before the first visit?

For the health and safety of both your pet and the groomer, make sure your pet is up-to-date on veterinary treatment, including vaccines and sterilization. Spayed and neutered pets are generally calmer, and sterilized dogs are less likely to bite. (Sterilized pets also enjoy many health benefits and do not contribute to pet overpopulation.) A pet who is particularly nervous or difficult to handle makes the grooming process stressful for both your pet and the groomer. If this sounds like your pet, work with an animal behavior specialist or dog trainer.

When making the appointment, inform the groomer about your pet’s needs. To provide special handling, the groomer must know in advance whether your pet is geriatric or has a chronic health condition. Also warn the groomer about any habits that could interfere with safe and successful grooming. Keep in mind, too, that groomers are not licensed to dispense tranquilizers; if your pet needs sedation to be groomed, find a veterinarian who employs a groomer. Finally, when you drop your pet off at the groomer, bid your pet good-bye quickly: Emotional departures will increase your pet’s stress level. When you pick up your pet, both of you will enjoy that clean, mat-free coat that makes pets—and their people—more comfortable.

BestFriendTags.com will be adding groomer to the website soon

Information courtesy of the Humane Society of the United States

I have heard there are problems with micro-chipping pets. What are the issues surrounding micro-chipping?

Microchipping is a great tool to help you reunite with a lost pet; however, it is not foolproof. When a lost pet is picked up by an animal control officer or is taken to an animal shelter or humane society, the professionals there will scan the animal using a handheld scanner, which will let them know if a microchip has been implanted. The microchip implanted under the skin reflects the signal given by the scanner to provide a unique alpha numeric code, which is picked up when the animal is scanned. Microchips implanted in 2003 or earlier are generally readable by most shelters and veterinarians. Microchips that came into use in late 2003 are generally not readable by most shelters and veterinarians because the chips require different scanning technology. Microchip manufacturers have not yet provided shelters around the country with a scanner that reads all different types of microchips (called a “universal” scanner).

What is the problem for animal shelters and humane societies with different types of microchips available on the market?
Each company that manufactures microchips has its own scanners, and some of these scanners can only “read” their own microchip. In other words, in some instances, the scanner of one company may not be able to detect the microchip of another manufacturer, which would indicate to the shelter staff that the lost animal is not microchipped. Without the ability to use one scanner for all types of microchips, shelter staff would have to scan the animal, who may be fearful and difficult to handle, multiple times with each manufacturer’s scanner. Additionally, some companies provide their scanners free to shelters, some do not. Without sufficient numbers of free scanners available to equip all animal control vehicles as well as shelters, microchipped animals may go unscanned by agencies, which can’t afford to purchase multiple scanners from multiple manufacturers.

My animal has already been microchipped, how do I know if my local shelter will be able to read the information on it?
The only way to know for sure if your local animal care facilities have the ability to read the microchip implanted in your pet is to call them. Visit www.pets911.com, or check your local listings to find your local shelter.

My animal has not yet been microchipped. If I purchase one, how do I know if my local shelter will be able to read the information on it?
This is the responsibility of the business or group providing the microchip. Ask whether the chip being implanted in your pet is compatible with the readers in place in your community. If there is any question, call your local animal shelter to be sure.

What do I do if my local animal care facility cannot read the chip that is implanted in my pet?
Call the microchip manufacturer and ask that they send at least one scanner to your local facilities free of charge.

Why isn’t there a scanner that can read all the different types of microchips?
Prior to late 2003, there was a universal scanner that could read all the chips in use in the United States. However, in late 2003, companies began selling chips with a new technology that could not be read by the previous universal scanner. To date, no microchip manufacturer has provided a truly “universal” scanner to read all currently available microchips. The technology to do this is available; the various companies manufacturing microchips must agree to share their technology to make this a reality.

What is The HSUS doing to help?
The HSUS has appealed to the microchip manufacturers to develop or modify existing scanners to make them capable of detecting all microchips, regardless of brand. The HSUS will continue to monitor the situation and assist in developing a long-term solution.

Given the present issues surrounding microchipping, should I microchip my pet?
Yes, microchipping provides an important safety net for your pet. However, before having a chip implanted, talk to your local shelter and/or animal control agency to make sure the type of microchip your vet is implanting can be read by the scanner being used by your local shelter.

How long do microchips last? Do they ever need to be replaced?
Microchips are designed to last the lifetime of a pet—a chip typically lasts at least 25 years. Chips do not need replacing. Once the microchip is implanted, it will remain there and active for the life of the pet.

What else can I do to ensure that my pet will be returned should he or she become lost?
All pets should wear identification tags (see bestfriendtags.com) at all times. Tags should include a local contact number, as well as a number for a friend or out-of-town relative. Proper identification tags are your pet’s first ticket home if he becomes lost. Microchips provide an important extra level of protection in the event your pet becomes separated from his collar and tags. Providing your pet with both tags and a microchip can help ensure a happy reunion if the unthinkable happens: your beloved pet gets lost.

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Information Courtesy of The Humane Society of the United States

Remember that the #1 way to get your pet back if they should become lost is for them to be wearing a Pet ID Tag. It will speak for them when they need it most! Be sure they are always wearing their Pet Tags and that the information on them is up to date.
When your beloved dog or cat strays from home, it can be a traumatic experience for both of you. Here are some tips that we hope will help you find your pet.

Contact local animal shelters and animal control agencies. File a lost pet report with every shelter within a 60-mile radius of your home and visit the nearest shelters daily, if possible. If there is no shelter in your community, contact the local police department. Provide these agencies with an accurate description and a recent photograph of your pet. Notify the police if you believe your pet was stolen.

Search the neighborhood. Walk or drive through your neighborhood several times each day. Ask neighbors, letter carriers, and delivery people if they have seen your pet. Hand out a recent photograph of your pet and information on how you can be reached if your pet is found.

Advertise. Post signs at grocery stores, community centers, veterinary offices, traffic intersections, and other locations. Also, place advertisements in newspapers and with radio stations. Include your pet’s sex, age, weight, breed, color, and any special markings. When describing your pet, leave out one identifying characteristic and ask the person who finds your pet to describe it.

Be wary of pet-recovery scams. When talking to a stranger who claims to have found your pet, ask him to describe the pet thoroughly before you offer any information. If he does not include the identifying characteristic you left out of the advertisements, he may not really have your pet. Be particularly wary of people who insist that you give or wire them money for the return of your pet.

Don’t give up your search. Animals who have been lost for months have been reunited with their owners.

A pet—even an indoor pet—has a better chance of being returned if she always wears a collar and an ID tag with your name, address, and telephone number. A tag that offers 2 phone numbers (such as bestfriendtags.com) provides the extra protection of your cell phone number, your work number or your vet’s phone. Ask your local animal shelter or veterinarian if permanent methods of identification (such as microchips) are available in your area. But even with a tattoo for ID or a microchip, your pet should still always wear an ID Tag for quick and easy identification.

Recomended by www.bestfriendtags.com

Information courtesy of The Humane Society of the United State